Clinker Build
If you have decided to build a model in the clinker style then we should make a start. I will be constructing this model at 1:18 scale and the planks and timberwork will be made from Tasmanian Oak.
There are many ways to construct a clinker style model but I am going to look at building this model on a wooden mould rather than just on frames. This means that before we think about the hull itself we have to build the mould. At 1:18th scale there is not a lot more material required and I think that the benefits of a good stable mould are worth the additional effort in these smaller sizes. The mould will be made from 3mm plywood and pine.
The following photos will step through the process that I will be using. This is certainly not the only way so please feel free to use materials or methods that work for you.
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The plans can be printed off at home or at a print shop etc.
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I cut out each frame template with a few millimeters extra around the outside. I will only be using every second frame for the mould. Because I am using 3mm plywood each frame and the keel will need the width of the slot modified to 3mm rather than the 6mm of the plan. A simple line drawn with a pencil on the appropriate frames is all that is required.
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I roughly mark on the plywood where each frame will be positioned.
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I am using PVA glue to stick the templates to the plywood. You could use whatever type of glue you choose but the idea is not to let the paper get soaked as it will stretch and go out of shape.
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I use a stiff brush dipped in some water to help thin the glue and brush it around. The paper template is placed onto the ply and wiped over with a rag to make sure all edges stick.
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The glue is allowed to set.
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If you only have access to hand tools you can use a coping saw or a fret saw to cut out the frames, keel and base.
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Don’t be afraid to use power tools if you have them. I generally use a band saw for most of my cutting of wooden parts.
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I prefer to cut parts out a little oversize and then use a disc sander to get to the final finished size. I find that I have a bit more control this way.
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All of the parts have been cut out and finished to size with the slot cut in each part for assembly.
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The parts are put together to test the fit. It is likely that cheaper grades of plywood will bend a little when the parts are cut out. This bending will be straightened out when things are glued together.
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The parts were all glued together with everything held in place with masking tape while the glue dries.
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Started to fill in between the frames with pieces of pine cut to size.
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It is pretty rough looking with all of these blocks of pine glued on to fill between the frames.
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After a bit of carving and sanding we end up with the mould for our open boat.
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Lines were drawn on the plug where the internal ribs will sit and the plug was given a couple of coats of clear varnish to seal it.
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The planks for this model were cut from Tasmanian Oak. The hull planks were cut and finished to a size of 12mm wide by 1mm thick.
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The wood for the ribs was sanded a little thinner to .75mm thick. I cut these to 2mm thick using a balsa cutter and a sharp modelling knife.
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To stop the planks and ribs from sticking to the plug I stretched some cling wrap over the plug holding it in place with masking tape along the bottom edge.
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We do need something for the ends of the ribs to be glued to during construction so I cut thin strips of masking tape and stuck these to the cling wrap under where each rid would be placed.
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The ribs are glued onto the tape on the center line and at the edges. Things were held in place with rubber bands until the glue dries.
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Some of the frames required soaking in water to allow them to bend to the required shape. When all of the ribs were in place a timber the same thickness as the planks and about 3mm wide is glued along the center line of the hull.
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A transom was made from the same size timber that is to be used for the planking. Four short pieces were glued together edge to edge them shaped to fit the transom (just a little over sized). The timber for the keel and stem were prepared to size.
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The stem post and the keel pieces were cut to shape. These pieces were about 4.5mm thick.
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All of the keel pieces were glued into place.
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The garboard strakes were shaped so that they fit tightly against the keel.
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The garboard strakes were glued in place. The edge should sit neatly into the rebate under the keel pieces.
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The first couple of planks were soaked in water and placed into the bending jig to dry.
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Planks were fitted in a clinker fashion, ie the edge overlapping the previous plank.
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All of the planking complete.
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The hull was removed from the mould.
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The cling wrap and tape was removed from the inside of the hull.
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Additional ribs and the gunnel timbers were fitted.
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Coated the outside of the hull with a light stain. Painted the inside white and painted the gunnel. The whole model was then painted with a couple of coats of clear satin varnish.
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